Sometimes the Black Pig crew gets so caught up in doing our own thing, be it bbq, smoking, sausage making, curing meat (or making a batch of saurkraut or pickled eggs even!), that we sometimes forget to stop and look around us to see what others are doing in the world of food.  And, really, it has to be said here and now that Les Noiracochon is, first and foremost, a collection of people who are passionate about food in general, not just the aforementioned disciplines.  If it is food developed and made with passion, care, skill and love, then that is where we want to be!  And 'where we wanted to be' this past Friday and Saturday was at Rei Dos Leitoes, a small, family driven bbq, grill and bar located in the Portuguese area here in London, Ontario.

Sue: Although the restaurant is named King of the Pigs, it's the chicken that everyone flocks to (no pun intented). The chicken had a beautifully browned skin, with just the right crispiness, and although not overwhelmed with spices, was incredibly flavourful.  The smoke flavour was there, but again, not too heavy, and the meat was tender and very juicy.

Big Dog: If you go to Rei Dos Leitoes, don't go looking around the table for a menu; you won't find one.  But that doesn't matter because you don't want to stray far from the restaurant's specialties anyway.  These specials change every day and range from steak to suckling pig, but on the day we were there it was stewed goat. The goat was as tender as it could be without falling apart.  It had real depth of flavour with a true balance of spice and juiciness. 

Sue: The goat was stewed to 'fall off the bone' perfection, in a red sauce, not a tomato-based pasta sauce, but more like a sweet chili sauce.  There was something reminiscent of a tapenade married into the sauce's flavour, and it was unlike anything I'd ever had before, but it was really good!  Perfect for dipping the provided crusty bread in.  This was my first taste of goat, and it was very nice, similar to lamb (which I love), but slightly stronger.  As I said, it was very tender and all parts had been chopped into serving size pieces and tossed into the pot, so there was a lot of flavour from the bones as well.

 

If the chicken, ribs and stewed goat didn't pack enough flavour punch on their own, there was the house blend spicy hot sauce that caught, and held, Big Dog's attention all lunch hour.

Big Dog: Chris was quick to point out their rendition of a hot (table) sauce, and I immediately opened it up and drizzled a good tablespoon or two onto my plate, dipping the crusty Portuguese bread into it.  This was not what I would truly define as a 'hot sauce' as there was too much sweetness and savory elements in it to qualify as that.  It was like..... a liquid flavour explosion!  I couldn't stop myself; there was mild heat there, along with an incredible balance of sweet spices infused within oil and mixed with the Peri Peri.  An ambrosia of the Gods; or at least of the King of Pigs!

 

The ribs were quite a way from what we strive for in competition bbq.  They did not seek to be 'fall off the bone' as that was not the goal.  Rather it was a high-heat cook for less than an hour that cooked the ribs through to being done, but not like we do with our 5 and 6 hour slow, smokey technique.  These ribs are served 'dry' with minimal spicing (I don't think I'd be giving any secrets away if I said coarse sea salt, pepper, granulated onion and garlic may be all there is to the seasoning crust).  However, cooking alongside the chickens at the high temp over those hardwood coals transforms the outside of these big slabs of pork ribs into an intensely and immensely enjoyable savory crust.  

Is it necessary here to say that the stewed goat is served with simply seasoned rice and potatoes and the chicken and ribs were accompanied by decidedly pedestrian fries?  Naw, as the commercial says, Rei Dos Leitoes is for 'meatitarians'.......... (That's not to say we didn't finish off dang near everything...animal, vegetable or mineral..... as this photo of the aftermath will attest).......

If it isn't clearly obvious by the above pictures or the glowing words, by meal's end we were all quite enthralled by what the Vieira family was offering at their diner-sized restaurant.  However, our Rei Dos Leitoes experience wasn't quite over yet.

On our tour of the pit area of the restaurant, we were shown a back area, where set back against a rear brick wall was an oven which we were told was where the Leitoes (suckling pigs) were cooked on Saturdays.  Jeez, missed it by one day, right?  Wrong!  Indicative of the hospitality we'd been showered with already, Chris invited us to return Saturday morning to witness the roasting of the signature suckling pigs.  Who'd say no!??

Big Dog: We returned the next morning to see the suckling pig.  It is dry roasted in a stone oven using residual heat from a fire they'd built early that morning.  We expected to come by, take a few pictures if it was okay, talk about their pigroasting technique and then head home to write up our comments on Friday's lunch.  Rui and Chris were having none of that; there was one smaller pig that was just about ready to come off if we waited a few minutes.  Not only did Rui show us how he cut the final product, he sent Chris for a plate and right then I knew we were in luck and started salivating like one of Pavlov's pups! I have never tasted pork like this before.  It was a defining moment---an epiphany---in regards to experiencing new dimensions in taste.  Our first trip outside of our own group and we hit a home run in discovering new approaches to seasoning and taste.  A good bit of the spice paste blend used in the cavity is removed and reserved to make a bold and aggressive (glorious garlic!) side sauce statement.  Combine that with the soft, sweet texture of the meat and the crisp snap of the roasted skin..... it left me sucking on the bones so I could extract every last morsel of flavour from this delicacy. Don't tell Chris and Rui, but this could even be better than the chicken........ 

 

Sue: When it was time for one of the little darlings to come out of the oven, they pulled it out and drained it of its cavity juices, which they put aside for sauce later.  It was cut up and we were given some to try.  I have never tasted a pig that did not taste like a pig until today.  It was absolutely heavenly!  The basting juices clung to the meat, and imparted a garlicky, salty, spicy flavour, the contents of which I was sure they would not want to share.  The seasoning recipe should have been guarded more heavily than Colonel Sanders', but they were quite happy to share their secrets.  The meat, even without the seasoning, was so moist and juicy and the skin was truly "cracklin' ".  I savoured every morsel and licked my fingers clean.  We've done whole pigs before and we always thought they were so good, but I have to tell you, if you've never tried a piglet, you really have to.  It's a fair bit of work for Rui, as he has to ensure he has a supply of pigs, then get the coals for the oven started at 6, so it has time to come up to temp and the pigs are done for the lunch crowd.  So If you want to be sure that you get a chance to try some, and I highly recommend you do,  give them a heads-up in advance.  As we reluctantly started to leave the fabulous smells and wonderful people in the kitchen of Rei Dos Leitoes, the lunch hour chickens were just starting to come off.  Their glistening skin looked beautiful and the smell was even better.  Just before we stepped out the door we heard Rui holler: "It's better today than yesterday, you'd better try some".  Can I say nobody had to ask us twice!  And sure enough, I don't know how, but it was better than the day before. Incredible!

 

After two days of fantastic churrasco, there was only one question left to ask of Rui and Chris: With such incredible taste and quality of food, why such a small location and limiting seating?  The answer according to Chris, "We still need a last couple of building permits, but we do have plans of expansion and some new equipment coming in.  We'll be able to do 72 chickens at a time when that happens".  As for a change in location, this building has been 'grandfathered' protection against today's stringent codes and bylaws that restrict most wood-fueled open pits and ovens, so a move is not prudent or imminent.  Besides how could you ever recreate that tantalizing smell that comes from every pore of the kitchen?  In that regard, Rei Dos Leitoes is very similar to the few old bbq joints of the US who cling onto tradition and cook with wood and charcoal-fueled brick and stone pits, saved from having to convert to propane-driven behemoth metal cookers thanks to their tenacious longevity and the grandfathering clause.

Big Dog: I look forward to the expansion and have to give the whole experience my full recommendation.  As much as I loved the goat, and would encourage you to try this, I have to strongly suggest that you go on Saturday and try a plate of the suckling pig, and also get some chicken as well; share with a friend or two... or eight..... You will be pleased.

Sue: Overall, we had a wonderful lunch, and all of us left with full bellies!  I would definitely recommend Rei Dos Leitoes to any of my friends and family.  If you're looking for a low key ambience or a romantic atmosphere, this is not the place to be.  However, if you're after great, authentic home cooked food...and lots of it....this is definitely where you want to go! This is real food, cooked by real people, for real people!  It is simplicity intertwined with complexity, simple flavours marrying with complex layers of flavours and it works, and these people work, and they do it for you, because they love to see the pleasure on your faces, and hear the moans and sighs that accompany a really good meal.  You really have to go. 

As for me, I have to concur with my fellow Black Piggers; this was truly an eye-opening experience as to the use of different flavours, temperatures, techniques, spices and presentations compared to the usual palette of ingredients we routinely reach for in creating our meals, and most specifically, our bbq.  To see that there is not only a place for a family operated business to survive, but to prosper, flourish and expand, is encouraging.  The passion, skill and dedication that we saw from Rui, Chris, their mom, uncle and entire staff these past two days was an unqualified joy to witness and take part in.  

Rei dos Leitoes: King of the Suckling Pig.  Now that, my friends, is truth in advertising!!

Rei dos Leitoes, 706 Hamilton Road, London, Ontario, N5V 1T6.  (519) 452-1310.  Open Monday to Saturday 11a-8p,  Sunday 11a-3p.

For daily specials, check their website: www.reidosleitoes.com